R1130 Renault 8 de 1964 (Reidar)

Reidar

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  1. R1130 de 1964
Thank you for your warm welcome.

I guess I should stick to English for now. Google Translate is good for understanding texts in foreign languages but not for writing.

The car is in overall good condition with little rust. Its original accept a rather bad respray a few years ago. The original colour is some sort of light blueish gray but the ptrevious owner wanted it to match is combicamp so he changed it to beige.

It looks good from a distance though...

IMG_4072.jpg


IMG_4076.jpg


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IMG_4096.jpg


The plan is to put a Volvo B14 engine in it together with a R5 Alpine head. Instead of usind webers I´ll be using bike bodies from a GSXR 750. The flanges for the manifold and the runners are made up awaiting welding.

DSCN0942.jpg


DSCN0944.jpg


The runners are jigged to keep them paralell with a centre to centre distance of 85mm.

DSCN0946.jpg


I have pretty much the same setup in my Peugeot 106Rallye 16v where it works great.

I´m also about to modify a set of wheels with wider outer rims. Most modern 15" wheels have 337mm centres while the R8 centre is 340mm. Fortunately Michelin seems to still make 15" wheels with 340mm centres.

I plan to have slightly wider rear wheels than on the front. I´ve picked up some 6,5x15" wheels from Partner/Berlingo to go on the rear

DSC00070.jpg


I was lucky to find a Citroën ID/DS on the breakers. The car was really bad but the 5,5x15 wheels seemed salvable. As Citroën was owned by Michelin at the time I was pretty confident the centres would be 340mm witch they turned out to be.

DSC00073.jpg



These wheels are riveted but with a totally different pattern than on the R8 wheels. After drilling out the rivets and separating them I will weld up the holes and weld the ID/DS rim to the R8 centre.
 

R8 Morgan

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  1. R1132 de 1964
salut et bienvenue parmis nous,beau projet de motorisation :: ,elle sert a quoi la prise sur le passage de roue arriére gauche? diagnostique
 

Reidar

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DSCN0947.jpg


I´m also going to build the exhaust system myself. So far I´ve only made the frange from 10mm steel. I will need help to calcualate the optimal dimensions of the tubes and also to decide wether to build a 4-1 or a 4-2-1.

 

AlexR8_68

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C'est la prise diagnostique de l'époque !

Sinon très beau projet de moteur,

ces papillons injections me donne des idées mais je m'y connais pas assez dans tout ce qui est injection ...
 

Eric14

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Bonjour

Voici la traduction (avec Google)

Merci pour votre accueil chaleureux

Je suppose que je devrais persévérer dans l'anglais pour le moment. Google Traduit est bon pour comprendre des textes dans des langues étrangères, mais pas pour l'écriture.

La voiture est dans le bon état complet avec peu de rouille. Ce n'est pas sa couleur d'origine d' il y a quelques années. La couleur originale est une sorte de légère bleuâtre grise mais le propriétaire a voulu ce pour correspondre est combicamp donc il l'a changé en beige.

Il a bonne mine d'une distance quoique...

Le plan est d'y mettre un Volvo B14 le moteur ensemble avec une tête(un responsable) Alpine R5. Au lieu de Weber usind j'utiliserai des corps(organismes) d'un GSXR 750. Les rebords pour le collecteur et les chariots(coureurs) sont composés attendant le soudage

Les tubes pour les continuer paralell avec un centre à centrer la distance de 85mm.

J'ai à peu près la même installation à mon Peugeot 106Rallye 16v où cela des oeuvres(travaux) grandes(supers).

Je suis aussi sur le point de modifier un jeu de roues avec des bords(jantes) extérieurs plus larges. Les 15 les plus modernes "des roues ont 337mm des centres tandis que le centre de R8 est 340mm. Heureusement Michelin semble toujours faire 15" des roues avec 340mm des centres.

Je planifie d'avoir des roues arrière légèrement plus larges que sur le front. J'ai pris certains 6,5x15 "des roues de Partner/Berlingo pour continuer l'arrière

J'ai eu de la chance de trouver une Citroën ID/DS . La voiture était vraiment mal, mais les roues en 5.5/15 ont semblé récupérables. Comme Citroën appartenait à Michelin a une époque. j'étais assez confiant que les centres seraient 340mm ils se sont avérés bon.

Les roues sont riveté, mais avec un modèle totalement différent que sur les roues R8. Après le meulage des rivets et de la séparation d'eux je souderai en haut les trous et souderai le bord(la jante) d'ID/DS au centre de R8.

Et voilà...........A plus Eric

 

Lio38

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  1. R1130 de 1966
:cool: Hello reidar, nice car, so what's up with your project. Are you going to finish it soon? Please send us news pictures. And what the electrical socket (outlet)is it for, you know near the motor? Thank you, bye

 

Reidar

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Hi Lio!

The pictures reflects pretty much how my project is going. I havent really worked much on the car itself, only prepared parts to go on it.

The electrical socket is for an elevtric engine heater. The central east part of Norway where it have spent most of its life is wery cold during Winter. -30C degrees or more is common.

:cool: Hello reidar, nice car, so what's up with your project. Are you going to finish it soon? Please send us news pictures. And what the electrical socket (outlet)is it for, you know near the motor? Thank you, bye

Just after I bought the car I bought a Momo Prototipo steering wheel like this for it:

momo_prototipo_black_lg.jpg


I soon realised that a boss(moyeau) to mount it in a pre 1968 R8 were quite hard to get. I found a boss in a french webshop that according to the info should be right but off course it wasnt. It had the 17mm diameter hole with the snall splines(canelures).

Does anyone have a tip on where to get the correct type of Boss?

Would this adapter fit? Its listed for Dauphine

83260.jpg
 
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Cakoa110

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salut Reidar
je te met une photo de mon moyeu
en fait faut démonter ton volant et voir si c'est des petites cannelures ou des grosses
j'espere que tu aura compris,car c'est google translate qui traduit.

hello Reidar
I will put a picture of my hub
makes it necessary to remove your wheel and see if it's small or large grooves
I hope you will understand, because it is reflecting google translate.
a +
Fred


 

Reidar

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Salut Cakoa110!

My car is a -64 and still have its original column with the "Grosse cannelures".

 
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Cakoa110

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salut reidar,

alors sa devrait allez avec ton moyeu de Dauphine

Que les membre confirmés ,confirme ;-)

a+

red

Reidar hello,

then you should be fine with your hub runner

Member confirmed that confirms;-)

a +

Fred
 

Reidar

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Salut Cakoa110!

I sent a mail to the webshop for them to confirm that the boltpattern of the adapter is the normal 6x70mm but didng get a reply. Nevermind I ordered one anyway. It will be exiting to see if it fits both the car and the steering wheel.

I´ve been working on my new wheels:

DSC00093.jpg


They are now ready to go on the car for final adjustments before welding.

Here I have lined up the 6,5" rear, the 5,5" front and an original one for reference

DSC00095.jpg


I´m also thinking of making a 13" set for track use.

I picked up some 5,5x13" from a R20 the other day. They should be easy to convert just switching the outer rims.

I dont find them to attractive though....

DSC00076.jpg


I trial fittet the wheels on the car. In the front I let the outer rims come further in than I had planned to clear the arch. The surface for the centre in the outer rim of the Citroën ID is quite wide and placed in the centre so there is a lot of room for adjustment.

In the rear it was harder. On the Partner/Berlingo rim the surface for the centre were placed on the inside of the rim(outer rim is flipped)) and it is narrow so there isnt much room for adjustment. I put the outer rim as far in as I was comfortable with but the rim still doesent seem to clear the arch.

DSC00097.jpg


I´ve given one of the rear rims some stiches of weld to make it possible to trial fit it with tyre on it. But I´m afraid the 6,5x15 wheel isnt suitable for use on the R8 without arch extensions.

I mounted a spare hub in a wice to make it possible to let the rim rotate freely

DSC00098.jpg


DSC00096.jpg


After troughing the rim I stitched it a few places before checquing it again. And then the final welding.

DSC00100.jpg


DSC00099.jpg
 
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Reidar

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The wheel adapter from Franzose.com arrived yesterday. Unfortunately its 6x80mm instead of the normal 6x70mm. The splines looks right though...

I might be able to modify it somehow, or using the part with the splines to modify another wheel adapter.

 
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Eric14

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  2. R1190 de 1967
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  5. R1062 de 1956
Bonjour

Superbe les jantes mais une question me chiffonne. L'équilibrage de la roue ne va pas être facile avec autant de soudure car au niveau du poids, cela n'est pas reparti vraiment pile poil comme a l'origine.

Eric

 

Eric14

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Bonjour

Pas de problème, le jours ou tu roulera avec, tiens nous au courant du comportement de tes jantes.

A plus Eric

Hello

Not of probléme, days or you will run(drive) with, like we informed of the behavior of your wheel rims.

To more Eric

:teamR8:

 

Ple

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Hello Reidar,

Did you have the opportunity to try your rear 6.5x15 wheels based on Berlingo rims? Is it ok without arch extensions? (I'm interested in it as I planed to do build the same wheels, equipped with 195/50/15 tyres)

Bonjour Reidar,

As-tu eu l'occasion d'essayer tes roues arrières 6.5x15 faites à partir de jantes de Berlingo? Est-ce que cela passe sans extensions d'ailes? (ça m'intéresse, comme j'envisage de faire les mêmes jantes, montées en 195/50/15)

Best regards,

PLE.

 

Reidar

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Hi PLE!

I trial fitted them once again a few days ago. This time i placed a block og wood under the rim to make it as realistic as possible.

DSC00114.jpg


To me it looks a bit wide but a 4,5" Gotti Bimetal I tried at the same time actually went 15mm further out so it shouldnt be a problem at all.

The clearance to the brakehose is another issue but not to hard to fix

DSC00116.jpg


I realise that I´ve done a mistake when I welded the front wheels as there isnt enought room for the track rod end. a 3mm spacer will be neded for them to clear.

In the back the mating surface on the outer rim is wery narrov with wery little play for adjustment. The problem is to make the rim clear the arch without the mating surfaces on the rim and the centre to be to much offset to each other.

I´ve trail fitted and spot welded one rear wheel where I´ve tried to find an acceptable compromise.

Anyway it was time too get a better impression on what the final result would look like.

I´ve bought some second hand tyres in 165/50-15. In the back I wanted 195 tyres but unsure wether to choose 45 or 50 profile. 45 would be a better match to the front wheels but will upset the gearing quite a bit. So I opted for a 195/50-15 tyre for now.

DSC00145.jpg


Here you see the front and rear tyre together with an original one.

DSC00147.jpg


DSC00151.jpg


The first impression is that the rear wheels look a bit too big. It can bee the black rim at the back that is deceiving me but I think it wold look better with 45profile at the back. Especially with thoose tiny front wheels. It could be that 185 tyres would be better too.

The front wheels are mounted with 4mm of washers as I havent got proper spacers yet. Theres a huge amount of room in the arches but I think some shorter springs would sort that nicely. The wheel is just a cm within the arch.

DSC00152.jpg


It is similar at the back. about a cm clearance witch wil actually increase with shorter springs

DSC00157.jpg


I think the back rims look a bit deep especially compared to the front ones. It could be that it will look good once painted in silver but I´m unsure.

I think maybe 6" would be a better choice in the back. Thats wide enough for 195 tyres and better suited for 185ones if thats the final choice.

What do you think?
 
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